Esquire [UK] (February 2011) - download pdf or read online

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Sample text

Bust Adjustments The bust area of your dress should be comfortable, without “pulls” (which indicate the dress is too tight) or “extra fabric” (indicating the dress is too big). Increase or Decrease Bust Circumference at Side Seams Reducing or increasing the bust circumference at the side seams of the front and back slopers is an easy alteration. If your measurement is 2" more or less than the sloper bust measurement, you should choose the next size sloper. If the sloper bust is too large, check whether the excess is in the front or the back, and reduce accordingly.

MM Seam allowance. I recommend that begin- ners notch their seam allowance at the corners, just until they are used to matching up pieces and sewing seams together. MM Waistline. Marking the waistline on the front and back patterns at the side seams will help you pin the front and back pieces together. If problems do occur, it is easier to troubleshoot when you have notches in place so you can see where things have gone wrong. Pleats and gathers. It’s useful to have notches along the seam allowances where each of these begins and ends.

Adjust the side seams equally. 5 Redraw the darts and the side seam, maintaining the original width of the waist. Sleeve Adjustments This book comes with a basic set-in sleeve sloper and a raglan sleeve sloper. If you do not make any changes to the shape of the armholes of the dress slopers, the sleeve slopers will work with any of the dress silhouettes of the same size. Most set-in and raglan sleeve adjustments involve the length and width of the sleeve, although some set-in sleeves might need some adjustment to the sleeve cap.

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Esquire [UK] (February 2011)


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